Official
Uniform and Equipment Regulations
9th Texas Infantry, CSA
Uniforms
The
following information in regards to uniforms is provided as a guide for
new members of the battalion. New
recruits are encouraged to talk with their company commanders, company
noncommissioned officers or veteran members prior to purchasing any
uniforms, accouterments, or equipment.
Prices for these items will vary.
Your company commanders and noncommissioned officers can advise
concerning individual item costs.
Jackets
The most common jacket worn by the Army of Tennessee (AoT)
was the waist coat. For the
common impression that we normally present, the jacket of choice is the Columbus
depot types II and I. If
you are new to the hobby, this is the first jacket that you should be
purchasing. These jackets represent the most common Depot
manufactured uniform coat used by the AOT. These jackets were
generally manufactured for the AoT and issued regardless
of state affiliation. They must be constructed using the proper
natural or gray jean material with the proper medium blue wool collars
and cuffs. Osnaburg was most commonly used for the lining and thus
should be used for reproductions. For buttons, you may use the
Confederate issue “I” (block style or script), the Federal Eagle,
the wooden two hole ¾”, or a combination of the three on this jacket.
Please not that state buttons were
rare at best and should not be sewn on your jacket.
Once
you have purchased your Columbus Depot jacket, you may wish to have an
alternative jacket for various events (rule permitting).
Alternative jackets may include the following:
Atlanta
depot,
this is a good
mid war jacket. This jacket was made of plain gray jean material without
a blue color of cuff. The jacket had six buttons and an osnaburg lining.
Buttons seen on the surviving examples are of the block I variety.
Department
of Alabama,
Jackets of this
pattern are similar in construction and material to the Columbus Depot
pattern.
This particular version does not have the traditional blue trim
on the sleeve cuff but it does have a dark blue cotton/wool jean collar.
The surviving examples have 5-6 buttons and are usually found with wood,
2 hole, ¾” buttons. They are lined with cotton osnaburg. This jacket
was issued after November 1864, to the surviving members of the AoT in
the Department of Alabama, Mississippi and East Louisiana.
If purchased you will be limited in the reenactments where this
jacket would be worn.
Plain “Commutation”
Jacket
, or any pattern jean jacket that can be documented from a
reliable source.
These jackets were also made of jean material.
Frock
coats.
These
knee-length jackets were issued whenever possible.
They were always constructed of jean material with an osnaburg
lining.
The trimming varied concerning the collars and sleeve cuffs.
There were many plain jean coats and a few that simply had a blue
collar.
Normally these jackets had seven federal eagle buttons, however,
there are some surviving jackets with block or script I buttons.
Note:
State buttons will mot be used for this jacket.
Front
and rear of actual frock coat. Most were hand stitched.
Hand
stitched buttonholes.
As a rule all visible buttonholes should be hand stitched. This is
a simple process that is not only authentic but also practical for a
jean jacket. Although there was quite a bit of machine stitching
in the 1860’s it was very different than the machines of today.
In many cases (compared to today’s machines) machine stitching looks
hand sewn. Therefore it is necessary to hand stitch. Beyond that
however, hand stitching reinforces the buttonhole and prevents fraying
and excessive wear.
Trousers
Purchasing
a pair of cotton/wool jean cloth trousers should be your first priority.
The trousers should be the correct military or civilian pattern
for the 1860s. For early
war events, the use of an appropriate civilian material is accurate.
Note:
The use of Federal Kersey (Sky Blue) trousers are unacceptable.
These trousers were either rare or non-existent in the AoT.
Shirts
Shirts
should be of the proper pullover pattern and should be made of the
correct material, preferably homespun cotton.
Buttons should be calico, milk glass, antique metal or shell
(Mother-of-Pearl). Plastic buttons should never be used.
Under
garments
It
is highly recommended, both for authenticity and comfort, that each man
wear lightweight muslin/cotton under drawers correct for the 1860’s.
These are full-length drawers that usually button down the fly.
Remarkably, wearing of these drawers help greatly in keeping cool
during warm days.
Socks
During
the war, socks were often knit by family members or by lady’s
societies who organized to make socks for the boys from their state or
community. Most were made of wool and were plain in terms of design.
Socks were always welcomed by the men.
Brogans/bootees
Shoes should be of the Jefferson brogan type commercially
available. Boots were not common in the infantry and should be strictly
avoided.
The
wearing of period canvas/cloth “camp” shoes is discouraged because
these were mainly an item of private purchase in the Federal Army. There
is written documentation of Confederate “ersatz” canvas and leather
bootees but there is neither photographic evidence nor surviving
examples of these types of shoes. Your impression as a Confederate
soldier in the AOT is better served by purchasing a pair of straight
last natural brogans or a pair of Federal issue “Jefferson” pattern
brogan.
Members
in the rank are prohibited from wearing cowboy, Wellington or army
boots. Work, combat, moccasins, and hiking boots are also prohibited.
Braces
(suspenders)
Braces
are required to hold the trousers up in place. An historically-accurate
pair of braces attached to buttons on the front and rear of the trousers
and were usually not sewn together.
Head
gear
The
most common hats worn by AOT soldiers were civilian slouch hats.
The actual historic ration of slouch hats to kepis was closer to
50/50. For many re-enactors
today, good kepis are hard to find. Correct kepis were usually made of jean material and normally
did not have a blue band. As
a norm, straw hats did not last more than 5 months in civilian life and
that reason were they quite rare in the Confederate army.
These should be avoided. Captured
federal headgear should be very limited. Hat blanks, cowboy hats or hilly-billy hats should be strictly avoided.
A quality hat from Clearwater
Hat Company or Dirty
Billy’s will run $80.00 to $100.00 but it will be well worth it!
They are not only correct but last for years in all kinds of
weather. Cheap hats look
bad and tend to have a short life span.
Belts
Belts should be leather or painted
canvas with the proper belt plates. Oval C.S. plates similar to the U.S.
plates should not be worn. Georgia
frame, forked tongue, roller buckles, Rectangle CSA, plain brass or
brass Star buckles are all excellent choices. White buff is appropriate
for early war impressions, such as Shiloh.
Cartridge
box
The following models are
recommended for the Army of Tennessee: US Model 1839 .69 caliber box, US
Model 1857 .69 caliber box, British Enfield box, Shelbyville .69 caliber
box, .58 caliber Baton Rouge Belt suspension box.
Strap should be leather or painted canvas. Brass breastplates or box plates should be avoided, as they
were not common.
Cap pouch
The
following are models recommended for the Army of Tennessee: US early war
shield front, US 1850 model, British Enfield cap pouch, CS single back
strap and Baton Rouge shield front.
Rifles
Three
band
rifles are the only rifles that will be carried within the battalion.
A report in April 1863 revealed that 44% of the arms in the AOT
were .69 percussion smoothbores (1842 Springfields); 37% were Enfields,
and 14% were rifled Springfields. The rest varied. It
was not until the Spring of 1864, that Enfields began to take
prominence. At that time
55% were Enfields, 32% Austrian and 11% had smoothbores.
Ideally one should have an Enfield (or a rifled Springfield) and a .69
smoothbore to use depending upon the scenario. If you are
buying your first rifle, you should purchase an Enfield. Each rifleman will carry a period correct rifle. It will be
inspected prior to every event by company officers or NCOs. Improperly
cleaned or unserviceable rifles will not be permitted on to the field.
The
use of a sling is optional. Examples of these rifles can be found below.
1842 Springfield
British Enfield
1861 Springfield
The
type of bayonet and its proper scabbard depends on the type of rifle
carried. The bayonet scabbard is worn on the same belt as the cartridge
and cap boxes. Make sure the bayonet fits properly on your rifle. File
and polish off any wording that refers to a country of origin (like
INDIA).
Knapsacks
As
a general rule, a good mid-war AOT impression should have 7 of 10 men
carrying Knapsacks (according to some period QM reports).
Men should, as a general practice, wear these into battle, as did
many veterans on campaign. Bedrolls
are self-explanatory. As for knapsacks, some good choices would be an
early war (Mexican war) soft pack, CS Single bag, Isaac Campbell’s
import bag or a hard pack.
Because
packs were awkward to carry and hurt the shoulders, many men simply
placed their few belongings in their blanket, rolled it up tightly, tied
the rolled ends together and threw it over their shoulder. Others
carried soft packs dating back to the Mexican War. A number of men
carried hard-sided packs made of tarred wood and canvas with leather
straps and metal buckles.
The
following articles are some of the personnel belongings which could have
been found in the knapsack of a CS soldier:
of a CS soldier: Newspaper, Bible, period night cap, tin or glass
photo, wood or bone toothbrush, toothpowder {a tin of baking soda works
very well and is accurate}, lye soap, folding knife, bone or wood comb,
period pipe, tin or brass tobacco box, match safe, housewife, course
paper, period nib pen, wood pencil (no eraser), small bottle of ink,
extra socks and/or a shirt (on a typical weekend two extra pairs of
socks and one extra shirt will be needed).
These items should be homemade, purchased from an antique store,
or carefully selected from a sutler.
(*Note: the haversack
was for food and utensils only.)
Blankets
A
good quality (preferable light) 100% wool civilian blanket is the best
choice. There are a few
manufactures of authentic reproductions that are expensive but well
worth the money. These make
a good impression and look fantastic.
Quilts are another option so long as they are made of natural
material and are period in style. Wool
coverlets or jean blankets are also appropriate.
Gum
or Tarred Blankets
Confederate
troops were issued a painted canvas (tarred) blanket which was a canvas
section painted with a black paint and linseed oil mixture.
The common gum-blanket during the war was the rubberized Federal
issued pattern. To maintain
accuracy, the Federal issued pattern only should be used about 30% of
the time.
Haversacks
These should be made of plain white or off-white cotton
canvas. Federal issue haversacks should be used in limited
quantity. Straps should be worn so that the top of the haversack
rests on the top of the hip at the natural waist line.
Note: CS haversacks
were generally closed by means of a button while US haversacks were
closed used a strap and roller buckle system.
Canteens
There
are a variety of period canteens that are appropriate.
Wooden, tin drum, federal smooth side and CS stamped tin drums
are all appropriate. All
canteen covers on federal smooth or bulls-eye canteens should be
brown/gray jean. Neither
the federals nor the Confederates used sky blue as a canteen cover very
often. Therefore it is best
to NOT use sky blue. It is important to note the canteen was normally worn lying
on top of the haversack. As
with the haversack, the strap of the canteen should be adjusted so that
the canteen rests at the top of the hip in line with the top of the
haversack.
Tinware
A
cup or a boiler is appropriate so long as they are made of tin.
A soldier needs only one or the other.
Plates
& Skillet
The
idea of a soldier on campaign (which is what we portray when we recreate
at reenactments) is to travel light and carry only those items needed. Therefore forget
about the iron skillet or the idea of having both a plate and a frying
pan. At a reenactment you
should plan on carrying either one or the other.
Canteen halves are recommended as they can be used for both
cooking rations and eating your food.
A canteen half is just that…half of a smooth side canteen that
one can fry with or eat out off, depending on your preference.
The
four man mess
His was the way of the CS soldier.
Company cooks were very rare (if they even existed) so men
usually shared cooking items and responsibilities.
It is recommended that four men share a small coffee pot, skillet
and broiler. Actually, you
can skip the coffee pot and just boil coffee grounds in a tin cup.
The point is to forget about a massive cooking set up.
Men cooked their rations in small groups (called messes).
Although it will take some adjusting and patience, you will find
that period cooking is easy, and once cooked, the period foods taste
good and keep your appetite from returning.
Eyewear
Spectacles
were rare among civilians or soldiers who had poor eyesight. So
the best idea is to do without them if you can.
If not, try contacts. Otherwise
it is important to buy period frames (modern frame glasses are
discouraged and will not be worn on to the battlefield).
It is not unusual to find frames at antique stores for price
range of $10 to $20. There
are suppliers on our approved sutler list who sell period correct
frames. Prices vary
depending on the vendor. Small
oval frames are period correct. A
limited number of rectangular frames would be acceptable, however round
frames are not. Do not use
tinted lenses as these were only for individuals with STDS and even this
was extremely rare.
Food
Rations Authenticity Guidelines
First,
all members of the battalion should read the article entitled Rations,
The Reenactor’s Dilemma.
This will give tremendous insight into the world of period
rations. One will quickly
find that a period diet is much better than the common practice of using
modern canned meat and other products.
Second,
the haversack is for food and cooking utensils only.
Third,
coolers and modern cooking equipment is not necessary and should be strictly
avoided. Only cooked
or cured meat should be carried thus a cooler is unnecessary. Non-period drinks may be stored at your vehicle or purchased
from non-historic vendors who sell at many events.
Our camps should be kept free of these anachronisms that always
damage a good impression.
Fourth,
let us establish
a simple rule. No
plastic or modern containers, ever. These are not necessary and they can ruin an impression for
you or your file mate who is trying to “get lost” in the time
period. Even if you choose not to carry period food items, remove what
you have from its plastic container and put it into a period correct
container. The following are some ideas:
Cotton
drawstring poke sack
– simple inexpensive bags that can be adapted to carry anything.
Brown
Wax Paper or Plain Brown Paper – perfect for cooked or greasy meat. Brown wax paper is now being manufactured and carried in many
grocery stores.
Small
tin or glass containers –
good for small herbs, salt or pepper.
Glass containers should have cork tops or screw zinc lids.
Food
The
following is a list of foods appropriate to the Army of Tennessee:
Meat:
Salt Pork, Cured Ham, boiled Beef, Slab Bacon
Bread:
Cornbread, biscuits or corn fritters (hoe-cakes).
Hard tack should be limited.
Drinks:
Coffee (beans or course ground) or tea.
Grains:
Cornmeal, grits, and rice.
Vegetables:
Sweet potatoes, potatoes, turnips, corn on the husk, black-eyed peas,
carrots, beans, hominy, and of course peanuts (although this is not
actually a vegetable).
Herbs:
Garlic, rosemary, coriander, basil, Tabasco pepper and bay leaves
Sweets:
The best idea for
a sweat tooth is Ginger snap cookies, which were very common and easy to
find in today’s markets. The
most correct sugar to carry is the “Mexican” cone sugar often found
for $1.00 per 7oz in the Spanish foods section of your market.
The other alternative is raw or brown sugar. Molasses is another very good Southern alternative.
Military
Camp Authenticity Guidelines
Camps
for CS troops should consist mainly of canvas flys and shelter halves.
A-tents should be avoided. Why? Because these men
were on campaign and often, as we read historical accounts, we find that
they moved well ahead of the baggage trains.
Thus, the men had to camp with what they had on their backs.
However, if A-tents must be used, it would be more correct if
three men shared a tent. The thing to avoid is having one man per tent. This
was not at all correct.
Camp
furniture should be virtually non-existent. This
means no chairs, stools or tables except perhaps for the battalion
staff. Men should use logs or their ground cloths for sitting
round the fire.
NOTE:
Bug
spray, 1st Aid items or medication are exceptions, of course.
These can be carried indiscreetly in a cloth bag (Polk Sack) inside a
knap sack or haversack.